Posts Tagged ‘balsamic vinegar’

Golden Day 115: Reggio Emilia with Marilena Maioli

unnamedI’m so grateful to have connected with Marilena Maioli. She is a corporate lawyer who has traveled the world, loved all her experiences, but always comes back to her home town: Reggio Emilia. Marilena describes it as “A cozy place where everyone knows everybody and local dialect is still spoken.” We’re lucky to have her joining in to give insider’s advice for a town many tourists may miss. This is clearly a place to authentically experience a gem of Italy… So here is Marilena’s Golden Day in Reggio Emilia.

Reggio Emilia is a medieval town with a fantastic city center which offers churches, museums, shops and bars. To begin your day at a caffe, you have many great places to choose from, but my favorite is Pasticceria la Torinese (Via Fornaciari 3/A,0522 541729). It has a beautiful art nouveau interior, (it’s been around since 1910), and we all go there for Cannellini allo zabaione. You can also enjoy a fantastic brunch here.

image008 A highlight of the historical center is Piazza San Prospero  (Piàsa Cèca=which means little square in our local dialect). It’s the real heart of Reggio Emilia,where we like to spend some time every day,to meet friends for a coffee or to visit the local market (on Tuesdays and Fridays).paaaa Stop by the Basilica di San Prospero,to admire the marble lions and large frescos. From time to time there are special events here,like dinners or happenings under the stars. untitled Little Square is connected to Piazza Prampolini (Piàsa Granda=Big Square), by a street with porches (Il Broletto). posti-visitare-vedere-reggio-emilia-Piazza_duomo_mercato  Here you can visit the Duomo with the medieval Baptistery, and the City Hall with the Sala del Tricolore=Room of the The Three Colors.This hall is rich with history, known as the place where the Three Colors that symbolize Italy–gets its name. On December 27, 1796, the hall hosted the congress of delegates from Reggio, Modena, Bologna and Ferrara. After they proclaimed the Cispadana Republic, which was adopted on January 7, 1797, a horizontal three color symbol, of green, white and red (with red at the top), was created. This is considered to be Italy’s first national flag! EPSON DSC picture Another beautiful place to see is the Basilica della Ghiara. It was built in response to a miracle and locals are very devoted to it. A fair takes place around the birthday of the Blessed Virgin Mary (September 8). Inside, it is richly decorated in Late Renaissance style, with gold, marble, and large frescoes of the Carracci school covering the domes and the vaults. ghiara 4093_reggio_emilia_basilica_della_ghiara You’ll find the best place for shopping in the Via Emilia–for clothes, shoes, books and local products.Saturday is the best day to see the locals there, meeting each other and enjoying the relaxed and traditional atmosphere of the town.Alle-Flaggen-Italiens-in-den-Strassen-von-Reggio-Emilia For delicious places in the center, I definitely recommend Gelateria K2 (Via Guido da Castello 7/F,052243386). flower And you must try the local bake shop Forno Antica Bontà (Via dei due Gobbi 2,0522430780) FORNOANTICO For prosciutto, salumi, and excellent local products, go to Salumeria Piccola (Via Antonio Franzoni 3,0522436303) Capture   The best place for aperitivo is the Piazza Grande, where all the bars are good… Here are some suggestions for dinner: Ristorante Canossa (Via Roma 37/B,0522454196, lunch: 12.30 – 14.00 dinner 19.30 – 22.00, closed on Wednesdays). This is a simple restaurant, but offers fantastic food. It’s a must for people who visit the city center and want to taste the typical specialties. Order cappelletti (our local version of tortellini) and tortelli verdi e di zucca (ravioli stuffed with seasonal herbs and pumpkin) and then try the excellent meat trolley with boiled and roasted meats, served with traditional mash and side bowls of tasty and spicy condiments. image015
In the evening, see what’s playing at the Teatro Municipale Romolo Valli. It’s a stunning neoclassic style theater, where you can see concerts, operas and ballet. teatro-Valli For a place to stay in Reggio Emilia, I recommend: Hotel Posta (Piazza del Monte 2,0522432944). This 4 star in the ancient Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, overlooking Piazza Prampolini in the historic center,has romantic and cozy rooms. photogallery14 Or Hotel Astoria (Viale Leopoldo Nobili 2, 0522435245). This is also a 4 star hotel, of modern design, that is surrounded by a park, near the Teatro Municipale Romolo Valli. Immagine2_ITA AND I must add… If you have time to visit the surroundings of Reggio, go to Albinea, a nearby village on the hills. Here you’ll discover a wonderful place with beautiful views…

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where you can and taste one of the best gelatos you ever tried in Gelateria Pam Pam (Piazza E. Cavicchioni 4,0522599105) l Just a few hills away, is the village of Quattro Castella, where you can eat in Ristorante La Maddalena and visit the Bianello Castle, which is one of the castles of Matilde di Canossa. She was a noblewoman, the principal Italian supporter of Pope Gregory VII during the Investiture Controversy. If you are in Reggio during the month of May, you must see Corteo Storico Matildico. It’s an event that usually takes place on the last Sunday in May, to honor the coronation of Matilde of Canossa at the hands of Emperor Henry V. corteo-matildico-2013-cavalieri If you want to spend a night in the country near Reggio Emilia, my favourite place is Agriturismo Cavazzone, just 15 minutes from the town center, on the hills over Albinea. This farmhouse hotel offers a typical restaurant and a “balsamery”, where balsamic vinegar is made, in more than 200 precious wooden barrels.The flavor of vinegar spreads all around, giving visitors unforgettable emotions.1391856802Una_delle_batterie_di_aceto_della_nostra_antica_Acetaia_del_Cavazone Grazie mille Marilena! I can feel your passion for Reggio Emilia and can’t wait to visit…soon!

Golden Day 110: Delicious Modena in Emilia Romagna

We’re moving up to the northern region of Emilia Romagna: A gourmet mecca, that foodies believe has Italy’s finest cuisine.emilia

We’ll begin in the town of Modena, home to beloved Traditional Balsamic Vinegar.

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For a Golden Day in Modena, begin in the Medieval town’s pedestrian only historic center,  which fans out from the Piazza Grande, the 12th century Romanesque Duomo and Tower–a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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Nearby, is the covered daily Mercato Albinelli, a football-field sized paradise of tidy stalls stocked with tempting greens, fruit, cured and fresh meats and baked goodies, graced by a lovely bronze statue in the center. Stop for a panini at Vino e Panini (Via Albinelli, #13).

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Cobblestone streets in the Medieval historic center are lined with shops that sell luscious homemade chocolates, fresh pasta, and countless bottles of their “black gold” — balsamic vinegar.  A great stop to buy local products is Enogastronomia Giuseppe Giusti Srl(Via Farini, 75059222533)

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If you’re in the mood for something sweet, slip into Pasticceria San Biagio( Via Emilia Centro,77059217284)  , that’s been famous for over a hundred years for its outstanding Marrons Glacèes and typical Modenese sweets such as the Barozzi Cake and the Amaretti of St. Geminiano.

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Barozzi Cake

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Amaretti of St. Geminiano

My most memorable time in Modena was a visit to tour the Acetaia di Giorgio. The acetaia is in the attic of the home of a charming couple–Giorgio Barbieri and his wife Giovanna. The moment Giorgio opened the door I was hit with the eye-watering aroma of fermenting vinegar!

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“One conducts an acetaia, a person doesn’t own it… it’s a living thing,” Giorgio told me, as took me up three flights of stairs and showed me around his vinegar loft. At 6 feet 8 inches tall, the genteel, slim retired national volleyball player is a master conductor. Using a giant glass dropper, he meticulously decanted vinegar from one antique barrel to another, while explaining the vinegar-making process he learned from his grandmother, which involves judiciously transferring grape must from year to year to barrels made of different woods, so a variety of flavors is absorbed into the liquid.

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Barbieri is one of fifty-five producers approved by a government run consortium to make what is considered  “real” balsamic, labeled Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, and stamped DOP, which stands for Denomination of Protected Origin. A rigorous testing process must be undergone to meet the consortium’s standards. Barbieri’s vinegars, which he ages from twelve to twenty-five years, have always passed inspection.

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“I’ve never had real balsamic vinegar before,” I said, amazed, when I tasted a demitasse spoonful he offered me. The thick, syrupy condiment burst with a balance of sweet and sour flavors that didn’t come close to what’s called balsamic in the states. After seeing the meticulous production process, and the daily dedication this tradition takes, I’ll never balk at paying for the real thing again.

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saladGiovanna made lunch in their downstairs dining room that opens to a garden. Aceto balsamico was featured in every delicious dish, including pumpkin tortellini with sage butter and an arugula and apple salad. This lunch remains up there with one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Italy!

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We had a light dinner that night at Trattoria del Giardinetto (Piazzale Boschetti 1, 059234448),  where you can enjoy such classics as Gnocco Fritto di Modena (fried pasta pillows) or housemade tigelle (small savory flatbreads) with cured meats.

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For Modena Tourist Info, click here. And you can also experience real balsamic in the town of Reggio Emilia, also consorzium controlled–Click here for info.

For more on the Modena Market, click here for Travels with Tricia’s beautiful Blog Post