Posts Tagged ‘Basilicata’

Golden Day 132: Matera, Part One

To discover Matera is delving deep into Italy’s rich history. Deep, as in going back to the Paleolithic Age, when cave settlements began in Matera’s hillside rocks.

Matera

What’s amazing is the area, in southern Basilicata, has been continuously inhabited since then–through classical Greek and Roman, medieval, baroque, and modern times, Matera’s Sassi=communities of dwellings built into the stones, grew and continue to change styles and shapes. In 1993 UNESCO recognized these Sassi as a World Heritage Site. And Matera has been named a European Capital of Culture for 2019.

It’s a stunning place to experience a Golden Day. Mine began with meeting a native guide, Antonio Manicone, of Matera Tour Guide, whose passion for his city brought fascinating details to his walking tour of the Sassi.

MATERA - 2016 - SASSI TOUR GUIDE

The panorama from the plateau above the Sassi conjures up scenes from Biblical movies–Mel Gibson used it for The Passion of the Christ, Pasolini for the Gospel According to Saint Matthew.

PASOLINI

And Antonio pointed out a spot where Warner Brothers had just finished filming Wonder Woman.

WONDERWOMAN

Antonio’s grandmothers had lived in the Sassi, before 1950, when the government stepped in and had the area evacuated, as it had become impoverished and the details of its isolation and desolate living conditions exposed in Carlo Levi’s bestselling Christ Stopped at Eboli.

CHRIST STOPPED AT EBOLI

Over the past decades, the area has been revitalized–homes have been renovated with plumbing and electricity, restaurants and hotels welcome travelers who want the full immersion experience.

Matera

One of the most beautiful spots was the Santa Lucia alle Mave church, where frescos from the 11th to 17th century remain.

Matera, Santa Lucia alle Mave

It was lovely to stroll the pedestrian only promenade above the Sassi…

Matera, Susan Van Allen

And have lunch at Al Falco Grillaio (Via Domenico Ridola 17, 0835 331128)–Homemade cavatelli with cruschi (dried peppers) and caciocavallo cheese…

Matera, Al Falco Grillaio

Or Antonio recommends Ristorante del Caveoso (Via Bruno Buozzi 21, 0835 312374),  a beautifully restored cave home, with a terrace overlooking the sassi, where local seasonal specialties, including truffles, accent homemade pastas and grilled meats…

CAVEOSO

I had the pleasure of spending the night at Albergo Sextiantio Le Grotte Delle Civita, in a luxuriously renovated cave room–Antonio told me that he and his father were part of the team who worked on the amazing 2-year restoration of the property…

Matera

The albergo restaurant/breakfast room is in what was once a church…

MATERA BREAKFAST

And the view out my door=Awesome!

MATERA - 2015 - VIEW FROM ALBERGO SEXTIANTO

CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO ABOUT VISITING MATERA — Buon Viaggio!

Golden Day 130: Maratea, in Basilicata=My Fatherland!

We’ll continue our Golden Days in the southern region of Basilicata.

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My first visit to this beautiful under-touristed region was random. I had plans to visit my friend Tania of In Italy Tours in Calabria, and found I had a few days gap in my traveling schedule. Sitting with my laptop in Rome, musing over the train route,  inspiration came: Go To Your Pappa Land! My grandfather was born in Basilicata, on a farm in Vaglio, near Potenza, then worked in a pasticceria in Naples before boarding a ship for the American Dream. I have letters he wrote when he’d go back to visit, and a necklace from his sister, my great Aunt Teresa…

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I needed a place to relax, and wanted to be near a beach, so Maratea, Basilicata’s coastal town beckoned. I booked a room at B&B Laino ,set off on the train for Golden Days, and was kindly met at the station by Giovanni, who drove me through town to the enchanting spot…

Maratea05

I loved breakfasts there under the blue umbrellas, looking out to the sea…

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Overlooking the village, set on a hilltop is a stunning marble statue of Christ, ala Rio de Janeiro…

MARATEA - MARBLE CHRIST

I strolled along the beach in the morning…

MARATEA - BEACH

And then followed a winding road and zig-zag paths for a walk–the village is oddly spread out, next time I’ll rent a scooter…
Maratea02After an hour, I landed in Maratea’s centro storico, an enchanting place, centered by the Fountain of Sirens…

FontanaSirenaMarateaI had pizza at Bussola, (Via Conte Stefano Rivetti 09 738 6863), which also serves great antipasti.
MARATEA - PIZZERIA BUSSOLABut the best meal of all, right in the central piazza, was at Marianna Pezzulo’s Antichi Sapori, (Via Alessandro Mandarini 29, 33 917 94102), where I met the charming chef in charge…

Antichi Sapori - Marianna Pezzullo

Felt at home with faces at neighboring tables,  matches with kids I went to grade school with in New Jersey…

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AND the Sunday dinner was extraordinary, including homemade cavatelli…

20160216_053753651_iOSAfter the long walk back home, came this sunset view…

InfreschidamarateaI dream of returning before too long… AND though I loved B&B Laino, if you’re looking for a more luxurious accommodation, that’s right in line with my female-centric Italy focus, check out La Locanda delle Donne Monache

MARATEA - LA LACONDA

Click Here for a story I wrote for Tastes of Italia Magazine about my Maratea experience, including recipes…I hope you get there to taste this delicious place!

Stay tuned for more Golden Days in Basilicata…

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