Umbria

I’m often asked: “I have 10 days in Italy, can you please help me with my travel itinerary?” Oh how I’d LOVE to! Except when that question is followed by that very looonng, heavy bucket list of ALL the traveler expects to  pack in to 10 days. While I love enthusiasm for Bell’Italia, and totally understand  “not wanting to miss anything”, the Truth is This:  When you cram too much in to an Italian vacation, you miss out on the most essential Italian experience: La Dolce Vita=The Sweet Life. A trip to Italy is a chance to open yourself up to the old world wayRead More →

Fate took me to Assisi for the first time in the early nineties. My husband and I were driving from Siena toward Montepulciano and a dense January fog descended. We got lost, argued about whether it was safe to head in the foggy direction (I SO wanted to keep going) and ended up turning towards clearer skies, with me pouting. We got lost again, heading towards Perugia, fought again, and then… there suddenly appeared a pink stone town on the hill, glowing like an oasis… Since we were living in San Francisco at the time, we imagined Saint Francis had lead us to our sister cityRead More →

Through the wonderful way that Italian connections happen,  my friend Carol Coviello-Malzone, (author of Flavors of Rome),  introduced me to Chef Andrea Tiberi, a young, super-talented gentleman who was born and grew up in Umbria–on a farm just outside of Assisi.  Andrea’s passion and gift  for cooking took him up the professional ladder (he’s cooked for The Pope!) and four years ago he moved to the USA to head  up Eatalian, a company that promotes the cuisine of Italy–through catered events and deliveries in the Connecticut Tri-State area. Eatalian also offers fun cooking classes (in collaboration with Select Italy) in a cool Soho Loft space. One of Andrea’s most beloved spotsRead More →

 I was reading  Eat Pray Love–the part where Liz Gilbert describes one of her new friends, (named Elizabeth), and I was struck by this line:  “With an apartment in Rome, a house in Umbria, an Italian husband and a job that requires her to travel around Italy eating food and writing about it for Gourmet, it appears that the second Elizabeth must have saved a lot of orphans from drowning in a previous lifetime.” I guessed (correctly) that this Elizabeth had to be the wonderful writer Elizabeth Helman Minchilli. For decades my Italian travel file folders have been filled with Minchilli’s beautiful articles I’ve clipped from magazines sheRead More →

The trip up to the central piazza of Perugia is a thrilling mix: you’re on a state of the art series of escalators rising over ancient city walls, gliding past humble homes with signoras peeking out as they water their geraniums in their window boxes, an aqueduct, those soft hills in the distance…and then you land in this vast Piazza with the Fontana Maggiore. It’s fun just to stroll about past the chic shop windows,  loads of chocolate displays (no secret this place is home to Perugina, maker of Baci), maybe even peek into the Cathedral of San Lorenzo to check out the chapel where the Virgin Mary’s wedding ring is kept. ARead More →

This title so appeals to me: Marcus of Umbria: What an Italian Dog Taught an American Girl About Love. The book just came out in June, has been getting great reviews, and what I’ve read so far has been wonderfully entertaining. Author Justine van der Leun is a hip young New Yorker, working as a magazine editor, who flees that world to puruse amore in the rural farming village of Collelungo (central Umbria).  The love affair crumbles, but Justine ends up adopting a dog and thus becoming (in her words) “a weirdo” of the village.  Most Collelungo natives treat dogs as bestie, while Justine follows the American model, showering Marcus with tender loving care. I’m loving reading her honest, witty prose Read More →

I met Kit Burns, founder of Doorways Ltd (a villa rental company) on a group trip to Sardinia  and we instantly clicked. I’m sure you know how these things go. It’s much like kindergarten–wandering over to an easel, where you’ve sniffed out a kindred spirit to join you in fingerpainting. As far as Kit, we were on a mountain ridge at a shepherd’s hut having this amazing lunch–fresh ricotta drizzled with honey, grilled sausages, thin Sardinian bread and delicious cookies –it was all spread out on rustic wooden tables overlooking this gorge. GORGE–OUS! While everyone was happily yakking, buzzed from the great food and wine–I found myself drifting to aRead More →

Marlene Iaciofano and I share the fact that our grandparents both immigrated to America about the same time (early 20th century) from around the same place–mountain villages near Campobasso, in the region of Molise. Who knows…maybe her nonno made eyes at my nonna at a festa when they were youngsters? Or maybe when they landed in America and settled in North Jersey they celebrated together at one of the picnics the Molisani  regularly put on in the parks up there in the summertime… I’m grateful to have met the lovely Marlene during my book tour this past springtime. She’s turned her passion for Italy intoRead More →

I admired Jill Eikenberry and Michael Tucker as actors on LA Law–then I read Tucker’s memoir about their adventures buying a cottage in Umbria, and I became absolutely enchanted by this couple. In Living In A Foreign Language: A Memoir of Food, Wine and Love in Italy, Tucker sweeps you into the moment-by-moment drama, hilarity, and deliciousness of  their life in Italy. Especially wonderful sections are where his culinary passions are indulged, and we revel along with him as he savors such regional specialties as truffles, pecorino, lentils, and porchetta. At its core, Tucker’s book is a heartwarming love story–interlacing their marriage,  friendships, and ever-evolving passion for all thingsRead More →

Seeing Gubbio for the first time will take your breath away. It appears like an Italian City Of Oz–a cluster of ivory medieval buildings, surrounded by a shimmering green forest. Here is a perfect place for a peaceful retreat–your visit can seamlessly blend together history and nature AND you’ll eat very well here–enjoying the local wine, truffles, and cured meats. It’s a lovely spot to wander around and shop for ceramics and antiques–there are awesome medieval churches to slip into and an impressive palace/museum at the top of the whole village. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can take a gondola ride from the village to Mount Ingino and hike down.  Or why not just sit inRead More →