BLOG (Page 20)

A wonderful way to start a Venetian day is to visit the Rialto Market, following in the traditional footsteps of this magical city. The pescheria (fish market, closed Sun & Mon), tucked behind the bridge, has been a happening spot here for over 1000 years. Surrounding it are vegetable and fruit stalls. Some of the produce is local, from the nearby island of Sant’Erasmo, and some has been brought in on ships from afar. The whole scene under that stunning Venetian light: glistening fresh fish, and (depending on the season)  cabbage from Treviso, persimmons, or white asparagus–blends to make this one of Italy’s most tantalizing markets. Get there early, betweenRead More →

  Here is what led me to Nan McElroy: Italy: Instructions for Use, which she so cleverly created. I tell everyone I know who’s going to Italy that this is a Must Buy–a wonderfully designed pocket-sized quide and phrasebook that contains all the nitty-gritty details you’ll need–about making phone calls, taking trains, driving, etc.  And for anyone headed to Venice, as JoAnn Locktov wrote in Golden Day 22, you Must download Nan’s Vaporetto Map. Nan was an absolute joy and inspiration to meet the last time I was in Venice. She’s lived there since 2004 and has immersed herself into Venetian life bigtime–it’s fab to follow along with herRead More →

If you only chase down one painting in Venice, make it this one: Titian’s Assumption of Mary. It’s the centerpiece of the massive Frari–a transcendent action-packed scene of  the Blessed Virgin Mary (aka the BVM) triumphantly being swooped up to golden heaven. It caused a huge sensation when it was unveiled in 1518. The monks who commissioned it grumbled that it was way too provocative–what with the BVM looking as though she’s dancing up to get her crown. The proper way to portray her pre-Titian was to show her seated on a throne, calmy levitating. But here Titian defines the Venetian Renaissance–swirling emotions into theRead More →

One of the wonderful things that happened while I was writing 100 Places In Italy Every Woman Should Go, was that I got connected to kindred spirits–people who are as passionate about Italy as I am. One of those wonderful people is JoAnn Locktov. JoAnn is especially passionate about mosaics, and has written a critically acclaimed book, Mosaic Art and Style, and co-written two others on the topic. Mosaics naturally led JoAnn to Venice, where the interiors of the San Marco Basilica and the Romanesque church on the island of Torcello are stunning examples of this art form. Thanks to JoAnn, on my last visit to Venice, IRead More →

To begin a trip to Italy with Venice is getting into the dream world immdiately. It’s the perfect place to slow down and surrender to Italian rhythms. You walk and stretch out from the plane ride, you listen to the church bells and the lapping of the water. You feel the softness of the water and melt into the fairytale. There is no better ride from an airport than taking the boat in from Venice. I remember my first time, how the fantastical island appeared out of the fog–a place I’d seen in so many postcards, now was right there in front of me…REAL… I’dRead More →

Even if I’m only changing trains in Florence, I have to check my bags and make a dash to this nearby most amazing store: Officina Profumo Farmeceutica di Santa Maria Novella It was once a 14th century Gothic Church, founded by the Dominican Friars, who were part of that whole medieval bunch of holy men who started gathering Italian flowers and turning them into health and beauty potions. Thanks to those gentlemen, we have one of the most gorgeous shops on earth, that turns a shopping trip into a mystical experience. It’s one jewel box of a room after another, staffed by chic women whoRead More →

Florence is full of thousands of lucky Americans like Meagan Brown: college students who spend semesters in this beautiful city. I met Meagan through her My Adventures In The Land of Tomatoes blog, a wonderful account of her 2009 Fall, where she studied the city’s history, interned for The Florentine, and fell in love with Florence. Now back at the University of Denver, with memories still fresh, Meagan graciously shares with me her vision of a Golden Day in this beautiful place. She began by writing about what she sees as “the heart of Florence”: the Arno River. Since she lived near there, she’d watch amazing TuscanRead More →

You’ll see this divine image all over Italy: The Annunciation. The moment when Mary gets the Announcement from the Angel Gabriel: The Divine Is Within You! Florence is full of them…The city celebrates its birthday on The Feast of The Annunciation, March 25…nine months before Christmas. Renaissaince painters wore down their paintbrushes capturing the action packed scene.  The most famous is the one above, by Fra Angelico, that you’ll see in San Marco. Here’s a favorite of mine by the Mannerist Pontormo, in Santa Felicita, where Mary looks like a runway model. Every painter wanted to capture this wonderful idea: the divine presence in aRead More →

Buon Anno! Tanti Auguri! Let’s eat lentils like the Italians do for the New Year, to bring in a Golden Year of Prosperity, Good Health, and Joy! I’ve had lots of memorable New Years Eves in Italy with my husband and friends, all revolving around spectacular meals…There was one in Rome that started at Ristorante Tullio, near the Piazza Barberini, where we ended up walking from fountain to fountain until the wee hours of the morning. There was one in Paestum, in the agriturismo of the wonderful Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli, where we’d joined Arthur Schwartz’s culinary tour, and made a timballo to add to the feast—where weRead More →

I was a fan of Judy Witts-Francini long before we met face to face. I got to know her through her fantastic Divina Cucina web-site, the best guide to the food of Florence out there. Judy’s a native California gal, who moved to Florence over 25 years ago, and now is a central part of the town’s culinary scene. I finally spent time with her in person last year, just before her wonderful first cookbook was published: Secrets of My Tuscan Kitchen.   Just like her Divina Cucina Logo (an angel holding a wooden spoon), when I’m with Judy–whether it’s in the Central Market of San Lorenzo or just walking through the streets, IRead More →